We went under water. It's a rush, almost dying. Coming close to death is one of the times when you truly feel alive. I've had more than a fair share of times in my life when I thought I could die. I've known a lot of people who have died. One of the things I've noticed about people dying is that it's usually them and not me. Guess I'm just lucky.
The worst is when you're not almost dying and you're not living. I've had more than my fair share of that. I learned at an early age how to tune out life. Hoe to basically just stay numb and allow the hours to float by. It used to be almost an art form now that I think about it. I had days alone as a child with no stimulation, just tuned out.
We went under water and I felt alive, so did my 4 year old, he didn't even cry. Surfing is something that makes me feel better after I do it. It's important to have a few of those things in your life. With two young children I'm forced to ask myself what's important to me in life. What do I want to pass along. It's also easy for me to do the bare minimum and tune out. That's why I love it when something spectacularly beautiful wakes me up.
I like my kids getting familiar with the ocean. It teaches them a certain amount of respect for their limitations and to me that's important.
I don't have much left in me right now, so until next time.
1 comment:
Duker - we almost died that time we skated that ditch out in the Niguel Hills....I think I ended up kick flipping it. I also almost died when I insulted Chris Costa (wasn't that your neighbors name?)
I make a point to toe the line every day! Life is so much more interesting when you push the boundaries.
Word up to you and Indy!
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